Cooking the Alphabet: Squ Is For Squashes

Now that I’ve typed that title, I guess there isn’t much else that’s edible that starts “squ” ... but I’m being specific because I want to reserve “S” for something else. (You may have noticed this pattern in action already. A nice way to expand the alphabet, no?) Although I greatly enjoy summer squashes, my focus today is on the amazing variety of winter squashes available these days. If all you’ve had is canned pumpkin, well, I feel for you ... you really haven’t had pumpkin.

As far back as I can remember, I have adored the flavor of squashes. My mom and I were the only ones who liked acorn squash, so she’d buy one, bake it, and we’d each enjoy half. Other squashes weren’t readily available back then. We lived close enough to the annual Circleville Pumpkin Show to make that an occasional family trip; I enjoyed it a lot, despite the plentiful wasps and bees trying to get some last food set by for winter. That festival was probably my first inkling that more things can be done with pumpkin—and related squashes—than just pumpkin pie. And it is very gratifying to see more pumpkins used as food, instead of just Halloween decorations. Some pumpkins, usually referred to as “sugar pumpkins”, have been bred specifically for eating; these tend to be too small for carving. I’ve cooked larger ones sold for carving—not knowing any better—and just like any other nonprocessed food, have found a good deal of variability in the flavor and texture. So far they’ve all been perfectly usable, especially since I have a trick that hasn’t failed me yet. (I haven’t tried the tiny decorative pumpkins, nor the giants that have been bred solely to be immense.)

Actually, I have two tricks now that I think on it, although I doubt one is a surprise. The flavor of pumpkins, acorn, and other similar squashes (butternut and hubbard are two other delectable varieties) is greatly enhanced if they are roasted enough for the natural sugars to caramelize just a bit. I’ll provide my procedure with the rest of the recipes, down below. My second trick is to always use two different varieties of squash when making a purée. I haven’t conducted exhaustive research on all the possible pairings, but have yet to find a losing blend; here are the combos I’ve tried: acorn–pumpkin; acorn–butternut; acorn–hubbard; butternut–hubbard; butternut–pumpkin; and just the other day, pumpkin and some squash whose name I didn’t get (if I learn it I’ll update this post). Some of these combos were simply good, while others were stellar—but I haven’t done enough playing around to know if the results are largely due to good specimens or general affinity between the types of squash. Fortunately, everyone in the family likes just about everything I cook with them, so I predict much more taste-testing in our future.

If you can get them at a local farm or farmers market, stock up! Winter squashes, with their dense, orange flesh and versatile flavor, are very nutritious, filling, and can star in both sweet and savory dishes. They also keep very well when washed, then stored in a cool, dark, dry place. If you don’t have a lot of storage space meeting those conditions, another option is to roast them, then purée or cut into chunks as desired; measure out quantities needed for your favorite recipes, place into labeled, freezer-safe storage containers, and freeze them for future use. (Ironically, squash does not can well under home canning conditions. I’m not sure why, never having attempted it.) My bet is that even professed squash haters will find at least one recipe they like prepared with the real thing. A reminder: while I use the term “pumpkin” in the recipes to follow, that’s just for the sake of brevity. As stated before, I’ve found squash combinations to yield more flavorful results, and that’s what I use in all these recipes.

Roasted Pumpkin

Preheat oven to 425°F

Wash the skin of the squash(es) well and pat dry. Remove stem if possible. For smaller squashes, cut into halves; scoop out the seeds and as much of the fibrous material from the flesh as desired. Larger squashes (e.g., hubbards) may need to be cut into many pieces; try to keep all close to the same size so they will roast at similar rates. Place on an ungreased rimmed baking sheet, cut side down for halves. Roast for 30 minutes.

With thin spatula or knife, turn pieces over; rotate pan and return to the oven, roasting for another 20–40 minutes or until the flesh is soft throughout, and the edges have started to brown. Remove from oven. Eat as is or with desired filling/seasonings; or let cool, then peel away the skin before puréeing or packaging for storage.

Filled or topped squashes: The quickest and arguably tastiest way to top a squash is with a generous pat of butter, some salt, and if desired a sprinkle of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and/or pepper.
For a dressier and sweeter filling, combine equal measures of softened salted butter, roasted, chopped pecans, and brown sugar (less sugar will also work); stir in cinnamon if desired to taste. Place a generous spoonful (1–2 T. into acorn squash; more for larger squash halves) of the nut mix into each squash half with about 10 minutes cooking time left. The important thing is to not let the butter or nuts burn.
For a savory filling, sauté some coarsely chopped, tart apples along with some chopped onion in butter; cook until both start to caramelize. Remove from skillet; in same pan, brown some country sausage, adding extra sage if desired. When cooked, combine with apple mixture; place generous portions into squash halves with about 10–15 minutes cooking time left.
Sugar pumpkins can also make pretty, edible bowls for hearty fall soups. Instead of halving them, cut the top off a little bit wider than if one were going to carve the pumpkin; roast both pieces. Purée the flesh from the top; use the roasted pumpkins as individual serving bowls for minestrone or some other compatible soup.

Puréed Squash Recipes

If using frozen purée, thaw before using. There may be some watery liquid that separates from the pumpkin flesh; you can discard it or use it in the recipe as you prefer.

Pumpkin Soup

Serves 6
Preheat oven to 425°F

2 carrots, coarsely chopped
2 onions, cut into wedges
2 T. olive oil (roughly)
1.5 lb. (3 C. approximately) puréed pumpkin
1 large potato, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 qt. chicken or vegetable broth
1 C. heavy cream
1 T. freshly ground nutmeg or to taste
1 t. pepper
Salt to taste

Place carrots and onions on a rimmed baking sheet; drizzle with oil. Roast in preheated oven about 40 minutes, until soft but not blackened.

While vegetables roast, in a large pot cook potato in simmering broth until soft, about 20 minutes.

When all vegetables are cooked, add them along with squash purée to the pot. Stir to combine well. Using an immersion blender or food processor, purée mixture until smooth. Return soup to low heat. Stir in cream and spices to taste; heat gently. Serve when heated through.

Pumpkin Muffins

Preheat oven to 376°F

1 C. pumpkin purée
1/2 C. packed brown sugar
1/4 C. melted butter
1/4 C. water
2 eggs
1 1/2 C. flour
2 t. baking powder
1/2 t. salt
1/2 t. ground cinnamon
1/4 t. ground cloves
1/4 t. ground ginger
1/4 t. freshly grated nutmeg

Butter and flour cups of a full-size, 12-hole muffin pan; or use liners.

Mix wet ingredients in large bowl, along with sugar. In a large measuring cup or small bowl, mix dry ingredients thoroughly. Add dry ingredients to wet ones; stir just until blended.

Fill muffin cups 3/4 full with batter. Bake 18–20 minutes. Best served warm (not hot).

Pumpkin Pie

Modified from this recipe
Serves 8

1/2 C. packed dark brown sugar
1/3 C. white sugar
1/2 t. salt
2 t. cinnamon
1 t. ground ginger
1/4 t. freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 t. ground cloves
1/4 t. ground cardamon
1/2 t. lemon zest
3 eggs, beaten
2 C. pumpkin purée
1 1/2 C. whipping cream
1 9–inch pie crust

Make pie crust and place into pie pan. Hold in refrigerator while making the filling.

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Mix sugars, salt, spices, and lemon zest in a large bowl. Add eggs; blend well. Stir in the pumpkin purée, then cream. Whisk until thoroughly blended. (Spices can be adjusted to taste; I highly recommend not omitting any, however.)

Pour into prepared pie crust and bake at 425°F for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes reduce the temperature to 350°F. Bake 40–50 minutes longer, or until a knife inserted near the center comes out clean.

Cool on a wire rack for 2 hours. Serve; or refrigerate until serving time. Garnish with cinnamon-dusted whipped cream or bourbon– or rum–laced whipped cream (scroll waaaaaaay down or search on the page for “bourbon”).

Spiced Pumpkin Custards

A delicious pie alternative for gluten–free diets

Serves 8
Preheat oven to 350°F

1 3/4 C. puréed pumpkin
1/2 C. sugar
1/4 t. salt
1 t. cinnamon
1/2 t. ground ginger
1/4 t. cloves
1/4 t. freshly grated nutmeg
1 1/2 C. whipping cream

Butter or spray cooking spray into 8 six–ounce custard cups or ramekins. Place into casserole dish and set aside.

In blender or food processor, or using an immersion blender, combine all ingredients except cream and blend until smooth. Stir in cream and mix thoroughly.

Divide batter equally among cups. Pour hot water around cups to a depth of about one inch. Bake 45–50 minutes or until knife inserted near center of one custard comes out clean.

Cool on wire rack; chill until serving time, if necessary or desired. Garnish as desired before serving.

In trying to find the name of the mystery squash referenced earlier, I came across two blogs with delicious-sounding recipes: Estonian food blogger Pille at Nami-Nami has shared a tantalizing recipe for ginger and pumpkin jam; and Delightful Home offers two pumpkin butter recipes. I can’t decide which to try first–but I guess I’d better buy more squashes before I try to make up my mind!